Tips · Japan
Late autumn in Japan: how do north and south differ?
Sapporo, Sendai, Kanazawa and Kumamoto from north to south: autumn-leaf timing, September-December weather normals and short trips for each city.
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The short answer
Late autumn feels quite different in Japan's north and south. September-October is Sapporo's autumn-color season, October-November brings autumn colors to Kanazawa, and October-November, with Aso's pampas grass and autumn leaves, is the best time for Kumamoto. In Sendai, cool autumn with its foliage is one of the best times to explore.
Temperatures differ a lot too. Average November highs are 9°C in Sapporo, 14°C in Sendai, 16°C in Kanazawa and 19°C in Kumamoto. In December, Sapporo's average low drops to -4°C, below freezing. For early colors, look at Sapporo; to catch the season through November, Kanazawa and Kumamoto, whose season runs October-November, fit better.
The exact timing changes every year, so check the official autumn-leaf forecast before you go.
When do the colors come? City by city
Here is the timing for each city. Northern Sapporo is earliest with September-October, while Kanazawa and Kumamoto give October-November.
These are only rough months. The exact timing changes every year, so check the official autumn-leaf forecast before you fix your dates. For Sendai, check the official autumn-leaf forecast before you go.
- Sapporo: September-October brings autumn colors. December-February is popular for snow scenes and winter festivals, but expect sub-zero temperatures and icy streets.
- Sendai: spring cherry blossoms and cool autumn with its foliage are the best times to explore. No month is given.
- Kanazawa: cherry blossoms in April and autumn colors in October-November are the most beautiful.
- Kumamoto: October-November, with Aso's pampas grass and autumn leaves, is the best time.
Where to see them
A standout stop for the pampas-grass and autumn-leaf season is Aso in Kumamoto. Its villages sit inside a vast caldera close to the crater and grasslands, about 1 hour 30 minutes by car from the city. Kusasenri is a wide grassland famous for grazing horses and a great drive. Access to the Nakadake crater is often restricted due to volcanic gas and alert levels, so check official information on the day.
For the other three cities, here are outdoor walks and viewpoints that fit an autumn trip. Check the official autumn-leaf forecast for that year's colors.
- Sapporo: Odori Park, a long park through downtown; the Mt Moiwa observatory by ropeway (service may stop in bad weather); Otaru Canal, about 30-40 minutes by JR
- Sendai: Jozenji-dori, a zelkova-lined avenue of about 700 m; the Sendai Castle site with views over the city toward the sea; Matsushima with about 260 islands; Yamadera, reached by more than 1,000 stone steps
- Kanazawa: Kenrokuen, counted among Japan's three great gardens (go early for fewer crowds); Kanazawa Castle Park next door; the Nagamachi Samurai District with its earthen walls and canals
- Kumamoto: Aso and the Kusasenri grassland, and in the city the Suizenji Jojuen Garden, reachable by streetcar
September to December weather side by side, and what to wear
Temperatures and precipitation are Japan Meteorological Agency 1991–2020 normals (Sapporo station, Sendai station, Kanazawa station, Kumamoto station). All four cities show the same months in the order September/October/November/December.
The north-south gap is biggest in December. Sapporo averages a high of 2°C and a low of -4°C, while Kumamoto averages 13°C and 3°C. Precipitation follows different patterns too. Sendai falls from 193 mm in September to 44 mm in December, and Kumamoto from 173 mm to 61 mm. Kanazawa instead rises to 251 mm in November and 301 mm in December. In Kanazawa, December is the wettest month of the year.
Pack for each city. In Sapporo, sidewalks are icy and very slippery from December to March, so wear shoes with good grip, bring a warm coat, gloves and a hat, and dress in layers because indoors is warm. In Kanazawa, carry an umbrella and wear non-slip shoes in winter. In winter, Sendai's Yamadera steps and surrounding mountains and Kumamoto's Aso highlands get snow and ice; if you rent a car, check for winter tires. In Kumamoto, typhoons may also come in August-September.
- Sapporo: highs 23/16/9/2°C, lows 15/8/2/-4°C, precipitation 142/110/114/115 mm
- Sendai: highs 25/20/14/8°C, lows 18/12/6/1°C, precipitation 193/151/59/44 mm
- Kanazawa: highs 27/22/16/10°C, lows 20/14/8/4°C, precipitation 232/177/251/301 mm
- Kumamoto: highs 30/25/19/13°C, lows 21/15/9/3°C, precipitation 173/87/84/61 mm
A short autumn trip built from the guides' itineraries
3 to 5 days covers the highlights of each city. Below, we picked the itinerary days from each guide that suit autumn.
It also helps to know how to dodge crowds. In Kanazawa, Kenrokuen and Omicho Market are quieter in the morning, and market stalls may close early in the afternoon. Kurokawa Onsen needs early booking. Kumamoto Castle is still being restored after the 2016 earthquake, so check official information for accessible areas and hours.
- Sapporo (4 to 5 days): Day 1 Clock Tower, Odori Park and TV Tower → Day 2 Nijo Market, the beer museum and Mt Moiwa night views → Day 3 a JR day trip to Otaru with canal lights at dusk. Plan Day 4 nearby trips (such as Biei and Furano in summer or Jozankei hot springs in winter) with official information before you go.
- Sendai (3 to 4 days): Day 1 the Loople bus to the Sendai Castle site and Zuihoden → Day 2 the JR Senseki Line to Matsushima (Zuiganji, Godaido, a bay cruise), then an evening walk on Jozenji-dori → Day 3 the JR Senzan Line to Yamadera, stopping at Sakunami Onsen on the way back, or a night at Akiu Onsen
- Kanazawa (3 days, 4 with Shirakawa-go): Day 1 Omicho Market → Higashi Chaya → Korinbo in the evening → Day 2 early Kenrokuen → Kanazawa Castle Park → the 21st Century Museum → Nagamachi Samurai District → Day 3 Shirakawa-go day trip (book the highway bus)
- Kumamoto (3 to 4 days): Day 1 Kumamoto Castle and the food street below it → Day 2 drive to Aso, the Nakadake crater (check access) → Kusasenri → a night at Kurokawa Onsen → Day 3 Takachiho Gorge, or back to the city for Suizenji Jojuen
Getting there and getting around
Entry procedures and online arrival forms can change, so check Japanese government or embassy information before you travel. Japan's tax-free shopping switches to a pay-first, refund-at-departure system from November 2026, so check official information if you plan to shop in late autumn.
The Tohoku Shinkansen links Sendai with Tokyo and beyond, and the Kyushu Shinkansen connects Kumamoto to Fukuoka and Kagoshima.
- Sapporo: the JR Rapid Airport train from New Chitose Airport Station to Sapporo Station takes about 40 minutes and costs about 1,100-1,300 yen. In the city, use the three subway lines and the streetcar that runs near the Mt Moiwa ropeway.
- Sendai: the Sendai Airport Access Line reaches Sendai Station in about 17 minutes (rapid) or about 25 minutes (local) for about 660 yen. The Loople Sendai sightseeing bus circles the main sights in about 70 minutes.
- Kanazawa: the airport bus from Komatsu Airport to Kanazawa Station takes about 40 minutes and costs about 1,200-1,400 yen. Via Tokyo, the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station takes about 2 hours 30 minutes to 3 hours and costs about 14,000-15,000 yen. In town, city buses and electric-assisted bike share are handy.
- Kumamoto: the airport limousine bus from Aso Kumamoto Airport to Sakuramachi takes about 55 minutes and costs about 1,400 yen. Since November 2024, city buses no longer accept national IC cards such as Suica (the streetcar does). Public transport to Aso and Kurokawa is sparse, so a rental car helps; you need an International Driving Permit.
FAQ
Which month should I go for autumn colors?
Sapporo is September-October, Kanazawa October-November and Kumamoto October-November (Aso's pampas grass and autumn leaves). In Sendai, cool autumn is a good time to explore. The exact timing changes every year, so check the official autumn-leaf forecast.
How cold is it in December?
By Japan Meteorological Agency 1991–2020 normals, average December lows are -4°C in Sapporo, 1°C in Sendai, 4°C in Kanazawa and 3°C in Kumamoto. In Sapporo, wear shoes with good grip for icy sidewalks from December to March.
Do I need an umbrella in Kanazawa?
Yes, bring one. Normal precipitation is 177 mm in October, 251 mm in November and 301 mm in December.
What should I watch out for at Aso in Kumamoto?
Mount Aso is an active volcano. Check alert levels and crater access with the Japan Meteorological Agency and local official information on the day. Public transport is sparse, so a rental car helps.
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ⓘ Photo credits
- Bojeru Pavilion, Sinheungsa Temple · Bernard Gagnon / CC0
- Inner moat of Osaka Castle · Joli Rumi / CC BY-SA 4.0