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Where Should You Go for a Winter Onsen Trip in Japan?

Lake Kinrin in Yufuin wrapped in early-morning mist.
Lake Kinrin · Photo: Tzu-hsun, Hsu / CC BY-SA 4.0

Which Japanese city suits a winter hot-spring trip? Onsen towns by city, how to reach them, bathing etiquette and December-February normals.

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Cities with hot springs at a glance

A hot soak is especially welcome on a cold winter trip. This article gathers Japanese cities with hot springs nearby: which onsen towns they have, how to get there from the city, and what December-February weather is normally like. Weather figures are Japan Meteorological Agency normals.

They fall into three regions: snowy Hokkaido (Sapporo, Otaru, Hakodate), Honshu and Shikoku with onsen towns close to the city (Sendai, Kobe, Matsuyama), and Kyushu, packed with hot-spring areas (Beppu & Yufuin, Kumamoto, Kagoshima).

Hokkaido: Sapporo, Otaru and Hakodate

Sapporo's Jozankei is known for onsen ryokan, with many travelers staying a night, and the Jozankei hot springs fit well into a winter itinerary. Check transport to Jozankei locally.

Otaru, 30-40 minutes by train from Sapporo, has Asarigawa Onsen in a mountain valley south of the city. It is reachable by bus from Otaru Station; check the official timetable. In February, the Otaru Snow Light Path festival lights the canal and an old railway line with snow candles. It is scheduled for February 6-13 in 2027, but always check the official schedule.

Hakodate's Yunokawa Onsen is a seaside hot-spring town reached by tram from downtown. Tram fares are about ¥210-260 by distance, and a one-day pass is available. There is a free footbath in front of the tram stop, and it makes a good afternoon stop after Goryokaku Park.

Otaru Canal and its old warehouses on a snowy day
Otaru Canal · Photo: 663highland / CC BY-SA 3.0

Honshu and Shikoku: Sendai, Kobe and Matsuyama

Sendai has two hot-spring villages close to the city. Akiu Onsen, known as Sendai's retreat, is about 50 minutes by bus from Sendai Station; for Sakunami Onsen, ride the JR Senzan Line about 40 minutes and change to a bus. You can stop at Sakunami on the way back from Yamadera on the Senzan Line, or spend a night at Akiu. In winter, Yamadera's stone steps and the surrounding mountains can be snowy and icy, so wear non-slip shoes.

Kobe's Arima Onsen, over the mountains, is one of Japan's oldest hot-spring towns and is famous for its iron-rich reddish water. It is 30 minutes to an hour from the city by bus or train, and day-use bathhouses make a day trip easy, though it is also ideal for a ryokan night. You can spend a day or a night at Arima, then move on to Osaka or the airport.

Matsuyama's Dogo Onsen is one of Japan's oldest hot springs: a hot-spring town of ryokan and shopping arcades around a historic wooden public bath. Limousine buses from Matsuyama Airport take about 40 minutes, and from the city you can ride the streetcar or the Botchan Train, a sightseeing train that runs on set days. The public bath is busy in the evening, so early morning or early afternoon is quieter. Ehime grows citrus, and mandarins are in season in winter.

The tiered wooden roofs of the Dogo Onsen Honkan bathhouse.
Dogo Onsen Honkan · Photo: CT-May / CC0

Kyushu: Beppu & Yufuin, Kumamoto and Kagoshima

Beppu is an onsen city where steam rises all over town. Kannawa Onsen is a hot-spring quarter with steam rising from every lane, close to most of the Hells, where vegetables, eggs and seafood are steamed over hot-spring vents. On the hillside, Myoban Onsen still has thatched huts that produce yunohana mineral flakes. Both are reached by bus from Beppu Station, and a historic city-run bath within walking distance of the station offers sand baths (no reservations, so you may have to wait).

Yufuin is a quiet hot-spring village beneath Mount Yufu. Lake Kinrin, fed by hot-spring water, is famous for its mist on early winter mornings. The route bus from Beppu Station takes about 50 minutes. From Fukuoka, the Limited Express Sonic runs from Hakata Station to Beppu in about 2 hours, and the Yufuin no Mori sightseeing train (set operating days; the Limited Express Yufu runs when it doesn't) reaches Yufuin in about 2 hours 15 minutes. Yufuin or Beppu also works as a day trip from Fukuoka if you start early.

Kumamoto's Kurokawa Onsen is a mountain hot-spring village of ryokan along a river, known for its bath-hopping pass (check official information for prices and baths). It is easiest by car, so rent a car at the airport if you head straight to Aso or Kurokawa. Kagoshima has the Ibusuki sand baths, where you are buried in warm beach sand (about an hour from the city by train or car), and Kirishima Onsen, mountain hot-spring villages near the airport. A bus from the airport reaches Kirishima Onsen in about 40 minutes to 1 hour (about 1,000 JPY), making it good for the first or last night.

The steaming blue hot-spring pond of Umi Jigoku in Beppu.
Beppu Hells tour (Umi Jigoku) · Photo: Bpcon98 / CC0
The rugged walls of the Nakadake crater in the Aso caldera.
Mount Aso Nakadake crater · Photo: STA3816 / CC BY-SA 3.0

December to February normals by city

These are 1991–2020 normals from the Japan Meteorological Agency at each city's station (Yufuin station for Beppu & Yufuin). They are not readings from the onsen towns themselves, and they are rounded to whole numbers. Each entry shows high/low, then precipitation.

In all three Hokkaido cities, lows stay below freezing for all three months and highs are only 0-3°C. Lows are below freezing in January and February in Sendai, and in all three months in Yufuin. Even Kagoshima, the warmest of these, has highs of just 13-15°C, so wrap up warmly after a bath.

Onsen etiquette and what to check before you go

Onsen etiquette is simple: wash before entering the bath, and keep your towel out of the water. Some facilities restrict guests with tattoos, so check in advance.

Winter transport differs by region. In some places, like Sapporo, it is best to skip a rental car if you've never driven on snow, while places such as Kurokawa, Ibusuki and Kirishima are easiest by car. If you rent a car, Japan drives on the left and you need an International Driving Permit; in mountain areas, check whether the car has winter tires. Japan's entry requirements can change, so check official information before you travel.

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FAQ

Can I use hot springs if I have tattoos?

Some facilities restrict guests with tattoos. Rules differ by facility, so check in advance.

Which hot springs are easy to visit from the city?

Hakodate's Yunokawa Onsen is a tram ride away, Kobe's Arima Onsen is 30 minutes to an hour by bus or train, and Sendai's Akiu Onsen is about 50 minutes by bus. Matsuyama's Dogo Onsen is reached by streetcar. From Fukuoka, Yufuin and Beppu are about 2 hours away, so start early.

What does a night at an onsen ryokan cost?

Upscale daily budgets per person are about 45,000 JPY+ in Sapporo and Hakodate, about 40,000 JPY+ in Beppu & Yufuin, Kobe and Otaru, and about 35,000 JPY+ in Sendai, Matsuyama, Kumamoto and Kagoshima.

Is it OK to drive to hot springs in winter?

Kurokawa, Ibusuki and Kirishima are easiest by car, but the Aso highlands get snow and ice in winter, so check for winter tires. In Sapporo, take trains or bus tours instead of a winter rental car if you've never driven on snow. Japan drives on the left, and you need an International Driving Permit.

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